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1. We shouldn't just "accept" climate change

Just because climate change is happening and its effects are already being felt, we shouldn't give up on efforts to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Agricultural GHG emissions, make up about 25% of global GHG emissions, but there's a lot that can be done to reduce this.

Richard Waite, associate, Food, Forests and Water Program, World Resources Institute explains: "By intensifying agriculture on existing land and protecting the remaining forests, we can eliminate emissions from land-use change. And by addressing key emissions from agricultural production – from cows and other ruminants, from fertilizers, and from rice production practices, we can greatly reduce emissions from agricultural production."

2. We don't need to "accept" a world with 9.6 billion people by 2050

The world population is growing, but fertility rates have fallen rapidly over the last few decades as girls gain better access to education and reproductive health services. African governments have made health and education a priority but greater investment could reduce the population challenge and the demand for food.

This is especially important in sub-Saharan Africa where half of population growth between now and 2050 will occur. A recent report from WRI estimates that achieving replacement level fertility (the rate of fertility at which a population exactly replaces itself from one generation to the next) in Sub-Saharan Africa by 2050 would reduce food demand by around 600tn kilocalories (kcal) per year by the mid-century. This would close 9% of the 6,500tn kcal per year global gap between food available in 2006 and food needed in 2050.

3. Switching crops is the future

Emphasis will be on climate smart agriculture in the short-term, but in 10 to 20 years time, the focus will be on switching crops, says Jason Clay, senior vice president, market transformation, WWF. As climate change affects commercial crops, alternatives will have to be sought out. Clay points that sorghum is already being substituted for corn and maize because it can be used in feed and produce like beer. In Mexico, the government is looking to varieties of cocoa to replace coffee crops, which may not be suitable to grow by 2025 due to blight and heat as a consequence of climate change.

With the right technical assistance and packages of better genetics, management practice and inputs, switching crops could be an opportunity for smaller farmers struggling with current crops to leapfrog previous performance and become more productive.

4. Research breakthroughs need more investment

Moving to adapted crop varieties that are more resilient to climate change is feasible, says Chris Brown, general manager for environmental sustainability, at agri-business Olam International. But for the next wave of research breakthroughs, the FAO has estimated that we will need $45-$50bn annual spending globally. It's currently at $4bn.

5. Cultivating trees on farms can boost crop yields

According to Waite, over the last few decades, farmers in Niger have managed the natural regrowth of native Faidherbia trees across 5m hectares. The Faidherbia fixes nitrogen in the soil, protects fields from wind and water erosion and contributes organic matter to soils when its leaves drop. Compared to conventional farms in the country, yields of maize in these agroforestry systems can be doubled and farmers in Ethiopia, Kenya, and Zambia are taking note.

6. Small-scale farmers are vital to domestic food security

Small-scale farmers have a guaranteed and growing market for staple crops, but the UK produces 24% less food than it consumes, says Charles Tassell, farmer and co-founder of AgriChatUK. This comes today, as MPs warn that the UK's ability to feed itself is threatened by complacency. Over the last 20 years, the UK's self-sufficiency for domestically-grown food has fallen from 87% to 68%, while yields of its most important staple crop, wheat, have not increased for at least the last 15 years.

Brown argues that governments, banks and companies must coordinate to support the 500m global smallholders to scale-up agri-production enterprises. This support should include legal land tenure, global policies for a level playing field, access to capital and markets, structured training (both agriculture and business development), and investment in technology and infrastructure.

7. Urban farms suit tomatoes, not cows

If urban farmers reduce the need for transport, refrigeration and packaging, and source inputs from local waste streams, then city farms could offer a sustainable alternative for growing fruit and vegetables, says Oscar Rodriguez, director of Architecture and Food. However, livestock farming and urban living make a less practical combination.

8. Meat is off the menu

Achieving replacement level fertility, reducing food loss and waste, reducing biofuel demand for food crops and shifting our diets, will all go some way to closing the gap between food available and food required. Any meaningful change to consumption patterns and the environmental impacts of food production though, will have to involve knocking animal products off the menu, especially beef. Chris Hunt, director of GRACE's food program, points to consumer campaigns like Meatless Monday as evidence of trending in the right direction.

9. The definition of a "good" farmer is culturally complex

What is good criteria for one person, may be shocking for another, saysLouise Manning, senior lecturer in food production management, Royal Agricultural University. In terms of animal welfare, stocking density might be considered an indicator of negative performance but in terms of resource management, a positive one.

10. Everyone has a role to play

The WRI report on Creating a Sustainable Food Future estimates that we need about 70% more food in 2050 than we have today in order to provide every one of the 9.6 billion world population with a daily intake of 3,000 calories. It's a huge challenge, but unlike other sustainability challenges, everyone can play a part in the solution.

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Organic farmers who use agroecological practices build healthy soil, conserve water, protect pollinators and keep the air and water clear of harmful pesticides. We owe them thanks for this. They also produce bountiful crops.

Yesterday, these hard-working farmers received an important boost of recognition from the scientific community with the release of findings from a major new study comparing the productivity of organic and conventional farming.

Published in the prestigious journal, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London, the exhaustive meta-analysis by researchers at the University of California, Berkeley found that the so-called “yield gap” between organic and conventional is far smaller than previously thought.

For organic farmers who diversify their farms with the agroecological practices of multiple cropping and crop rotation, the “gap” shrinks to less than 10%. And for some crops (oats, tomatoes and apples, for example), there were no yield differences at all. As Claire Kremen, study author and UC Berkeley professor, put it:

This paper sets the record straight on the comparison between organic and conventional agriculture... Increasing the proportion of agriculture that uses sustainable, organic methods of farming is not a choice, it’s anecessity. We simply can’t continue to produce food far into the future without taking care of our soils, water and biodiversity.

Digging into the data

The authors examined 115 field studies from 38 countries covering 52 crop species — a dataset three times the size of previously published work — and employed a more rigorous and precise method of statistical analysis (detailed in a 50-page supplement) than studies to date. In so doing, they were able to correct for the kind of measurement errors that led authors of a previous study, published in Nature in 2012, to overestimate differences in productivity between conventional and organic farming.

I was glad to see the good news about organic farming's productivity. At the same time, it's critical for us to realize that one of the most important factors affecting productivity in this study was whether farmers incorporated agroecological management practices or not. This is one reason why industrial-scale monocropped organic farm operations — while certainly less toxic than chemical-intensive conventional agriculture — still do not achieve the same rich and complex benefits of ecologically diversified farming.

One immediate lesson for policymakers is where to put their (our?) money. As the study's lead author, Lauren Ponisio, explained,

“Simply by increasing investment for agroecological research — for example, to improve organic management and to develop seeds for organic farming systems — we could greatly reduce the remaining yield gap, and even eliminate it entirely for some crops and regions.” 

Historically, less than 2% of USDA funding has gone towards organic research — and even less towards agroecological research. Redirecting investments towards agroecology could bring "big payoffs," the authors point out.

Addressing hunger

But what about implications for global food production overall? We know that ultimately hunger and malnutrition are not matters of scarce production, but have everything to do with poverty, inequitable access to food, imbalanced distribution, unfair trade policies, land and resource grabs, and badly misguided “aid” and development interventions that destroy local food systems.

Kremen agreed: “It’s critical to put this yield gap discussion in context.” Noting that “our current agricultural system produces far more food than is needed to provide for everyone on the planet,” she emphasized that simply increasing yields is not the answer. “For one thing," she said, "global food waste alone is 30-40% per year."

If we could cut food waste by half, Kremen explained, that would go a very long way towards addressing food production concerns. Meanwhile, we should also focus our efforts on reducing the harmful impacts of industrial agriculture and building the resilient agroecological farming systems that we urgently need.

Another agroecosystem is possible

What we're talking about here, really, is a meaningful and world-wide transition to agroecological farming. As I recently explained after returning from FAO’s first-ever International Symposium on Agroecology in Rome, agroecology is the way of the future. And much of the rest of the world is already on its way there, most often led by peasant farmers melding rich traditions of Indigenous knowledge with cutting edge ecological science.

Now just take a moment and imagine what the U.S. food system would look like if policymakers in Congress, at USDA and in our land-grant universities actually stopped taking money from Big Ag and the pesticide industry lobby — and really thought long and hard about what this all means. What if we really got serious about investing in biodiverse, ecological agriculture, as the UC researchers suggest we must?

This is an approach the renowned International Assessment of Agricultural Knowledge, Science and Technology for Development urged us to take. Meanwhile, family farmers, engaged scientists and social movements in Latin AmericaAsia and Africa are already making great strides in that direction.

If we follow suit, we might well end up with a U.S. farming system that produces plenty of fresh, nutritious food. It could enable us to get off the pesticide treadmill once and for all, thereby protecting the health of rural communities and farmworkers. And our farms would be far more ecologically resilient and productive in the face of climate change, drought and other environmental stresses. That would be a worthy result, indeed — supporting empowered, healthy communities around the globe.


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At the Whole Foods near the Vox office, a store brand free range turkey costs $2.69 per pound. A free-range heritage breed turkey is $3.69 per pound. A free-range organic turkey goes for $3.99 per pound. Those are 37- and 48-percent price differences, and they're both far more than you'd pay for a so-called "conventional" turkey. At a nearby Safeway, the store-brand turkeys are selling for 59 cents per pound, and Butterball turkeys are at 88 cents.

Everyone knows that organic food is more expensive than conventional food, so it's easy to shrug at this. But exactly why is your expensive turkey so wallet-draining?

Organic turkey feed is expensive

The biggest difference between organic and conventional turkeys is feed — that accounts for around half the cost difference between the organic and the conventional turkey, according to David Harvey, the US Department of Agriculture's top poultry economist (and the man you see quoted in dozens of turkey-related stories every November).

Nationally, he says, conventional turkey feed costs around 41 cents a pound on average. Organic feed can be significantly more costly. At Nick's Organic Farm in Potomac, Maryland, which both raises organic turkeys and sells feed, it's $1,080 a ton for broiler feed, or 54 cents a pound when people buy in bulk from him. That's just one example, but it's a nearly 32-percent price jump.

Organic feed is itself more expensive because it can take a lot more work to grow the organic grains that go into it. Not only can organic grain farmers not use herbicides and insecticides to kill off weeds and bugs that can lower yields, but to even get certified organic, a farmer has to refrain from using those chemicals for three years prior, as this guide from Iowa State University explains.

Supply and demand in the grain market also into the equation here, says Wayne Martin, an extension educator at the University of Minnesota.

"Fewer farmers are willing to raise grain organically, when demand is high and prices are good for conventional crops," he writes. And though corn and soybean prices have fallen off recently, they had in the last couple of years been sky-high, meaning less incentive to get into the organic feed business.

Organic turkey processing

Organic turkey-growers have to send their turkeys to special organic turkey processing plants. These can be more costly to operate than other plants.

Most that do organic turkeys also process conventional turkeys but have to take lots of special measures to make sure the two operations are kept entirely separate — the types of products used in organic processing, like cleaning solvents, can be more expensive, and organic plants can only use certain approved pest control methods. Asthis guide from the State of Minnesota points out, they can also require substantially more training for employees to make sure that non-organic substances don't contaminate organic areas. And on top of that, they have to be inspected regularly and pay a fee to be certified — not a huge cost, but it adds to the total cost along the supply chain.



Mmm. He looks delicious. (Shutterstock)

Organic turkey health risks

Organic turkeys face higher health risks than their conventional peers for a few reasons. one is that they are allowed to go outdoors, meaning they can risk death from both predators and the elements, according Martin. Not only that, but farmers can't treat them with antibiotics when they get sick — instead, they might use probiotics or apple cider vinegar. More risk to birds means more dead birds, means smaller supply, means bigger prices.

Those are the big factors that go into making an organic turkey, but if you tack on any of the other modifiers — say, if you want a pasture-raised, organic, heritage turkey — the price factors can increase dramatically.

Pastured turkey is even pricier

You might picture your organic turkey as skipping through a pasture somewhere, but it's altogether possible it was raised in a space nearly as tight as the confinement turkeys experience.

"An organic turkey is required to have access to the outdoors. But the bird doesn't have to have access to any particular amount of outdoors," explains Nick Maravell, owner of Nick's Organic Farm. "So if you have 5,000 birds, you don't have to have so many square feet of access per bird."

But if you do get a pastured bird, that could create a much heftier price tag. That's because pasturing can really alter what farmers call its feed-conversion ratio — the amount of feed you have to give it to add a pound of meat. According to a 2007 estimate from the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, the average feed conversion ratio for a confinement turkey is 2.5 pounds of feed for every pound of meat, but that can be far higher for pastured birds. Just as you would more easily gain weight if you sat behind a tray of Oreos all day than if you went outside and wandered around, a confined bird will be way better at putting on weight.

"Pastured birds are just not going to put on weight as quickly as a bird that's grown no more than 50 feet from food," explains Harvey.



These turkeys all know each other really well by the time they're slaughtered. (Getty Images)

Organic turkey labor costs

Keeping turkeys in a giant confinement house with automated feeders can require very little work per turkey. However, the amount of labor that goes into a turkey can grow substantially depending on what type of special treatment the birds are getting.

More labor goes into the feed for an organic turkey, and if you get a turkey that's pastured, that also makes for a lot more labor. Pasturing a flock means you have to re-pasture it on new land eventually. That takes a lot more work (and more land per turkey) than a cursory walk-through of a turkey confinement house. This also means it can be tougher to scale up pastured turkey production as efficiently as scaling up a confinement operation.

Heritage turkey breed costs

Not only does how the birds are raised matter; different types of turkeys put on weight differently. Broad-breasted whites (the breed you're likely to buy) are bred, as the name might suggest, to have huge breasts (incidentally, those huge white-meat breasts people love to eat also get in the way of the birds' mating, so these birds are bred through artificial insemination). Broad-breasted birds tend to put on weight more efficiently than the so-called "heritage breeds," a broad name given to a several types of turkeys that are closer to the less-genetically-altered forefathers of today's huge-breasted monsters. Really, one way to think about it isn't that heritage birds are expensive; it's that the other turkeys are bred to be cheap.

"When people are selling those heritage breed turkeys, some of those breeds don't convert feed quite as efficiently as conventional breeds," explains Harvey. "Conventional growers put tons and tons of breeding work into it for that purpose."

According to one 2003 study, some of these breeds take more than four, and even more than six pounds of feed per pound of weight gained, the American Livestock Breed Conservancy writes.

Not only that, but it takes most heritage breeds longer to reach market weight. Broad-breasted turkeys take 16 to 22 weeks to reach market weight. For heritage breeds, it's 26 to 28.

---

Then keep in mind that none of this even takes into account whatever margins retailers try to get on the turkeys they sell. This is, so to speak, how your Thanksgiving (turkey) sausage is made. So if your host picked an $80 bird, maybe don't load up on sides (which are more delicious, we know) and appreciate what went into your exorbitantly priced, pasture-raised main dish.

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As more people become aware of the importance of growing their own food, social media has become a primary way ideas are shared. one of these ideas which is often seen on Facebook and Pinterest is the walipini underground greenhouse. 

This greenhouse claims to grow food year-round and only cost $300 in building materials. For lots of gardeners, particularly those in cool climates with short growing seasons, a greenhouse is almost a must-have. Let’s take a look at the advantages of an underground greenhouse: 

Takes advantage of thermal mass. When you dig down even just four feet, the temperature changes dramatically. Frost lines generally are three to four deep, so a six to eight foot walipini is completely protected from frost. one walipini owner claims that his greenhouse keeps pretty steady 70 degree Fahrenheit or warmer temperatures when it’s 10 degrees outside. Because underground greenhouses are warmed by thermal mass on all sides, you really can’t lose any warmth compared to a traditional greenhouse. 

Effective in almost any climate. Walipini and other pit-style greenhouses are effective nearly everywhere. In fact, many of the early designs for these greenhouses originated in very cold climates like Canada. Of course, you won’t be able to get super-hot temps in a cold climate in winter, but it will get warmer than a traditional greenhouse. Many countries outside of the United States swear by these designs, particularly gardeners in China. 

More visually appealing – and hidden. While this is a matter of opinion, most people do agree that underground greenhouses are far more appealing because they don’t take up as much visual space on their landscape. 







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Eating a leaf off a plant may not kill it, but that doesn't mean the plant likes it. The newest study to examine the intelligence (or at least behavior) of plants finds that plants can tell when they're being eaten -- and send out defenses to stop it from happening.



We’ve been hearing for decades about the complex intelligence of plants; last year’s excellent New Yorker piece is a good place to start, if you want to learn more about the subject. But a new study, conducted by researchers at the University of Missouri, managed to figure out one new important element: plants can tell when they’re being eaten, and they don’t like it.


The word “intelligence,” when applied to any non-human animal or plant, is imprecise and sort of meaningless; research done to determine “intelligence” mostly just aims to learn how similar the inner workings of another organism is to a human thought process. There’s certainly nothing evolutionarily important about these sorts of intelligence studies; a chimp is not superior to a chicken just because chimps can use tools the same way humans do. But these studies are fascinating, and do give us insight into how other organisms think and behave, whatever “think” might mean.

This particular study was on the ever-popular Arabidopsis, specifically the thale cress, easily the most popular plant for experimentation. It’s in the brassica family, closely related to broccoli, kale, mustard greens, and cabbage, though unlike most of its cousins it isn’t very good to eat. This particular plant is so common for experiments because it was the first plant to have its genome sequenced, so scientists understand its inner workings better than almost any other plant.


The researchers were seeking to answer an unusual question: does a plant know when it’s being eaten? To do that, the researchers had to first make a precise audio version of the vibrations that a caterpillar makes as it eats leaves. The theory is that it’s these vibrations that the plant can somehow feel or hear. In addition, the researchers also came up with vibrations to mimic other natural vibrations the plant might experience, like wind noise.


Turns out, the thale cress actually produces some mustard oils and sends them through the leaves to deter predators (the oils are mildly toxic when ingested). And the study showed that when the plants felt or heard the caterpillar-munching vibrations, they sent out extra mustard oils into the leaves. When they felt or heard other vibrations? Nothing. It’s a far more dynamic defense than scientists had realized: the plant is more aware of its surroundings and able to respond than expected.


There’s more research to be done; nobody’s quite sure by what mechanism the plant can actually feel or hear these vibrations, and with so many plants out there, we’re not sure what kind of variation on this behavior there is. But it’s really promising research; there’s even talk of using sound waves to encourage crops to, say, grow faster, or send out specific defenses against attacks. Imagine knowing that a frost is coming, and being able to encourage plants to fruit faster by simply blasting them with music. That’s the kind of crazy sci-fi future this indicates.




(Image via Flickr user Carolyn Conner)

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Yields on farmland have increased 38% since 1989 but the cost of inputs including fertiliser jumped about 325% during the same time. Photograph: CactuSoup/Getty Images



How do you profitably invest in sustainable agriculture - farms producing diverse, fairly-priced healthy food without harming the environment, but which also restore soil fertility and provide farmers with a fair living? Small farms and community supported agriculture partnerships are nice, but they are predicted in the best-case scenario to reach only 1% to 2% of the population.

Target conventional farms

Farmland LP, a San Francisco-based fund and farmland manager pursues this goal by converting conventional mid-size farms to multi-crop “beyond organic” properties that use a closed-loop, where everything on the farm stays there, a process that reintegrates livestock, also making the system sustainable.

Its newfangled approach moves specialist farmers around the property based on ecology, biodiversity and what’s best for the land in the long run. It has five farms totalling 6,750 acres worth $50m under management east of San Francisco and in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Managing partner Craig Wichner claims that after the soil is restored, this approach (which eliminates the need to grow corn and soy for animal feed) produces the same amount of food as conventional agriculture, but is more profitable because input costs are so much lower.

While yields on farmland increased 38% since 1989, the cost of inputs used by conventional agriculture – fertiliser, herbicides, pesticides, GMOs and fuel – jumped about 325% during the same timeframe, according to the US Department of Agriculture’s Economic Research Service.

Premium for organic?

The five year-old firm has launched its second fund, a $250m private real estate investment trust, or REIT, open to institutional investors and high net worth individuals. Wichner plans to hold the land long-term, but pay investors an estimated 6-8% net cash flow after the soil has been certified organic in a three to five year conversion period.

According to Wichner, that’s nearly double the cash flow for conventional farmland, the price farmers generally pay to lease it. The hitch is that rather than lease land for a fixed cost, farmers share profits with the REIT, something that will be cheaper for them in a bad year and more expensive when times are good.

With such high returns, it appears the firm is betting on more good years than bad. But it currently has 20 different tenant farmers growing 20 different crops in diverse geographies. That means the fund’s volatility will be lower than for conventional farmland. But because the growing is more complex, Wichner says it’s more management intensive and requires more intellectual property. And it’s a “team sport.”

Even so, his estimates for the higher lease payments are based on his expectation that organic vegetables will continue to command a 50% to 200% premium to conventional, depending on the crop. About two-thirds of the land will remain in pasture, and 10-20% will be devoted to growing vegetables and 10-20% for grains.

According to Wichner, 2013 revenues were $1.8m representing a 3.6% gross cash flow – exactly the return he says you’d expect from conventional farmland. Most of that was generated from conventional crops grown on the 4,200 acres the firm bought in December 2012 where the lease for last year was already in place.

But the firm also had 783 certified organic acres last year. All told, Wichner says, 15% of revenues came from the sale of grass-fed lamb, cows and hogs that are feeding on pasture in the land conversion stage, and a small amount from the sale of organic seed.

Wichner claims that revenues will be boosted substantially in 2014, the first year Farmland LP is cultivating vegetables. Citing USDA statistics, he says it’s not unusual for organic farmers to gross $20,000 to $50,000 per acre.

Does this mean the firm’s projected high returns in any given year ultimately will come mostly from as little as 10-20% of its land? Not exactly. As farmers rotate around the site, of course, which part of the property that represents is constantly changing. That’s a must because annual crops are extractive, meaning they deplete soil. But there’s more.

Beyond organic to sustainable best practice

To replenish soil, conventional agriculture uses fertiliser that is synthesised from mined materials. Although organic fertiliser must be natural, it can still be mined. And organic farmers often use manure from feedlots or compost imported from off-site. Between crops, they use cover crops for protection against erosion between seasons, drought resistance, pest control, and to restore nitrogen and soil carbon.

There are two ways to move to sustainable best practice. The first is to plant annual cover crops such as clover or legumes – something that New York chef Dan Barber features in his new book, The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food.Barber points outthat we cherry-pick organic farms when we eat ecologically demanding and expensive foods like heirloom tomatoes, and he argues that we should support the whole farm by including cover crops in our cuisine. Right now, organic farmers typically do not sell their cover crops for cash.

But pasture is another form of cover cropping, and one that could result in a very different diet of the future than the one Barber is promoting.

Here, imitating the diversity of nature, Farmland LP has planted the pasture in multiple perennial grasses in the same space. Unlike annuals, these plants have deep roots that can access nutrients and water not available to annuals, meaning they need less from the farmer. But it also makes them more resilient in extreme conditions. And they are also less energy intensive than annuals because they don’t need to be replanted each year.

Ultimately, though, the idea is that livestock and crops work together to regenerate the soil. Perennial plant roots link up with fungi that can delve 25 feet deep and pull minerals out of the earth’s rock, which are expressed in leaves. These, in turn, are eaten by animals and become part of the topsoil as the livestock’s manure decomposes.

“Cover crops are halfway there in a sustainable agriculture system, but that’s not enough,” Wichner explains, adding that livestock also improve the economics of farming. “Instead of just having a cost for the cover crop, you can convert that cover crop to a cash crop.”


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Seen from the air, the USDA National Clonal Germplasm Repository for Tree Fruit, Nut Crops and Grapes is a tidy, unremarkable, roughly 70-acre patchwork of varying shades of green and brown. From the ground, it’s a lush, hot, endless expanse of tangled vineyards and sun-blasted groves, alive with chirping birds and buzzing. 


It contains two each of hundreds of species that are or have been relevant to California’s agriculture -- as well as those crops’ wild ancestors -- and has been called a bank, a backup, a living history, an ark. As climate change increasingly wipes out the fruits and nuts we eat today, this place, says Dylan Burge, a botany curator at the California Academy of Sciences, is where we’ll turn for help.




Almonds, apricots, cherries, figs, grapes, kiwi, olives, peaches, pistachios, plums, pomegranates, walnuts: The repository’s list adds up to 253 taxa and so much mouth-watering diversity that a 30-foot stroll will net you five kinds of plums. But as anyone who’s grown mealy peaches from a promising pit may suspect, this incredible richness can’t be protected by saving seeds. The only way to replicate these crops is to do an end-run around cross-pollination by clonally propagating them: by planting a live, healthy cutting. For cultivated fruits and nuts not backed up by living collections, gone from our farms means gone from the world.





California’s $17.2 billion fruit and nut industry may look too big to fail, but climate change-driven increases in temperature, drought, flooding, and disease aren’t just coming for this mostly Mediterranean climate;they’re already here. The near future is predictably grim: A 2009 UC Davis study concluded, “Areas…for growing walnuts, pistachios, peaches, apricots, plums and cherries are likely to almost completely disappear by the end of the 21st century. For…apples, cherries and pears, very few locations with safe chilling levels were found to exist today, and…virtually none will exist by mid-century.” That’s a big threat to food security (California fruit and nuts account for more than half of the nation’s tonnage), and the main reason this repository is worth caring about.








Banking current crops (and distributing cuttings to anyone who asks) is vital, but it’s just one small piece of the facility’s larger mission. By maintaining the crops’ “wild progenitors” — the tiny olives, odd-tasting grapes and all-pit-no-pleasure peaches that are the ancestors of modern crops — the repository is preserving a huge index of genetic traits that we’ll desperately need in the future, including drought-resistance, heat-resistance, disease-resistance and more. Collectively, this stock is called germplasm, or as Burge puts it, “one of our most valuable resources going forward.”







Consider the vineyards of northern Sonoma County, heavy with pinot noir grapes that require a cool climate. As temperatures rise, growers will respond by switching to other, existing grapes that are slightly more resistant to warmth. “And sure, they can probably do that for a while,” says Burge. “But at some point, they’re going to run out of genetic variation in existing cultivars and they’ll have no choice but to breed more heat resistance, and more disease resistance.” (As California gets warmer, it’ll also get wetter, requiring heavier doses of sulphur and other anti-fungals to combat disease.) To breed in new traits, you go back to nature — you go back to wild progenitors.







The differences between a cultivated fruit and its wild ancestor — the extent to which we humans have successfully overhauled them to fit our preferences — is a little shocking the first time you really see it. Uncultivated fruits are generally smaller, less sweet, have thicker skins and less flesh; cultivated plants have bigger leaves, thicker stems, and the fat vines necessary for shunting water and sugar to fruits (and supporting the weight of their increased size). We’ve changed crops so much, and for so long, that in many cases their true, untouched relatives don’t even exist in the wild anymore. “Vitis vinifera is like that,” says Burge. “It’s one of these organisms that seems to have been virtually wiped out at the same time it was domesticated. We managed to backcross all of them to wild stock over thousands of years, so the wild stock disappeared.”







Table and wine grapes are the repository’s main focus, with about 10,000 vines representing 5,000 varieties and species of grapes from all over the world. And while the wild grapes may technically have all been interfered with at some point in our 6,000-plus-year history with them, they’re still pretty untamed. A velvety, sun-warmed, unidentified species of wild Costa Rican grape pops with totally unclassifiable sweetness, despite being small and packed with seeds. Fox grapes sneak up on you with some sort of unfriendly but exciting muskiness. A tart scuppernong grape is intense in a fantastically un-supermarkety way. “These guys are really divergent,” Burge says, mouth full of them. “They’ve been evolutionarily separate from the table and wine grapes for 40 or 50 million years.”







Despite the fact that he can sometimes be found earnestly inspecting kiwifruit — or anything else that’s green (including, he confesses, salad bars) — Burge’s area of research is grapes. It’s also, as it happens, a solid illustration of how vital this repository is to our food future. “We don’t understand what genes allow a plant to detect warmth,” he says. “We don’t understand, for the most part, what combination of environmental variables trigger a plant to flower, and then the subsequent event — fruit-ripening — we don’t understand that at all. And then at the end of the season,” he adds, throwing up his hands, “how do they sense changes in day-length and temperature to know when to go dormant to avoid being injured by first freeze? These are all things we need to understand to build the capacity for resistance to climate change.”







The repository’s enormous grape collection is one of the few places big enough, diverse enough, and aliveenough to allow Burge to find answers. It’s a sample size so massive that any variation he sees — in the timing of when the leaves or flowers come out, or when the fruit ripens — “should be genetic, since they’re growing in exactly the same conditions.” By collecting that kind of big data, Burge and colleagues will be able to do a range of problem-solving, starting with the construction of models that reveal how different grapes respond to different temperatures, and which ones are going to be better at dealing with environmental changes like increased warmth late in the season, or drought.







Burge will also be able to combine that data with genome sequencing to begin figuring out exactly what genes are involved in those adaptations. That work won’t deliver answers that apply to olives, pistachios, or anything not a grape — “we’ve learned recently that plants vary widely in their genetic basis for stuff like this,” he explains — but identifying a gene that helps grapes negotiate changing temperatures would have huge implications for the country’s grape industry (which contributes a reported $162 billion to the U.S. economy). “If we can compare 50 varieties of the genomes simultaneously,” says Burge, “we’ll have a really good sense that this is the gene that controls a trait across all grapes, which means if we breed it back into any other grape, we know we’ll be able to give it that quality.”







“I couldn’t do this work anywhere but here,” Burge adds, nodding at rows of grape vines that unfold for acres. “Having a block like this is a perfect resource for experiments and genetics. If it were a smaller sample size, we just couldn’t do it.” Burge isn’t the only researcher at work in the repository — there are ongoing projects specific to plums, walnuts, almonds, and more — but they all have at least one thing in common: They’re racing the clock.







“There’s a huge rush right now,” he says, pistachio nuts crunching underfoot, “because we’re already losing stuff.” He mentions a recent $50 million grant from the European Union that’s sending botanists all over the world to collect germplasm from as many “landraces” as they can, but adds, “it’s mostly focused on seed crops, because it’s really easy to take a big bag of seeds and just throw them in the refrigerator. If you’re going to do the same project for clonal crops, you’d have to do something like this on an enormous scale.”







Considering the role this place will play in our future — and how few of them there are (the USDA maintains another national repository in Corvallis, Oregon; a smaller, citrus-focused version in Riverside; and a handful of seed banks) — it’s a little unsettling to see how, as Burge puts it, “wild and wooly it is out here. There are basically three guys who maintain this whole facility,” he explains, making his way down rows where vines carpet the ground, “and they don’t have a lot of money to maintain the collections. [Horticulturalist] Bernie [Prins] is in real damage control mode just to keep it going, but they do a pretty incredible job.” The enormity of their task is clear as soon as you pull through the gates of Wolfskill Ranch. After three hours of walking — during which you cover maybe a third of the grounds — the reality of what it must actually take bowls you over.







Full of grapes, stomach regretting a lot of almost-ripe peaches, hands sticky with figs, it’s hard not think about the mirror that crops hold up to the people who eat them. Today, they reflect not just our tastebuds, aesthetics, and migrations, but our uneasy relationship with a planet we’ve changed more radically than any plant. If that makes you feel fragile, uncertain, even frightened, that seems about right. If it makes you want to support science funding, support farmers’ markets, or even grow something yourself, even better. Just know that if you email Bernie for cuttings, you’ll end up in line behind a lot of scrambling researchers, and you’d better be ready to cover shipping.




http://modernfarmer.com/2014/09/beautiful-best-chance-save-tree-fruits-nuts-grapes/

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“In the Second World War,” Samuel Zook began, “my ancestors were conscientious objectors because we don’t believe in combat.” The Amish farmer paused a moment to inspect a mottled leaf on one of his tomato plants before continuing. “If you really stop and think about it, though, when we go out spraying our crops with pesticides, that’s really what we’re doing. It’s chemical warfare, bottom line.”

Eight years ago, it was a war that Zook appeared to be losing. The crops on his 66-acre farm were riddled with funguses and pests that chemical treatments did little to reduce. The now-39-year-old talked haltingly about the despair he felt at the prospect of losing a homestead passed down through five generations of his family. Disillusioned by standard agriculture methods, Zook searched fervently for an alternative. He found what he was looking for in the writings of an 18-year-old Amish farmer from Ohio, a man named John Kempf.

Kempf is the unlikely founder of Advancing Eco Agriculture, a consulting firm established in 2006 to promote science-intensive organic agriculture. The entrepreneur’s story is almost identical to Zook’s. A series of crop failures on his own farm drove the 8th grade-educated Kempf to school himself in the sciences. For two years, he pored over research in biology, chemistry, and agronomy in pursuit of a way to save his fields. The breakthrough came from the study of plant immune systems which, in healthy plants, produce an array of compounds that are toxic to intruders. “The immune response in plants is dependent on well-balanced nutrition,” Kempf concluded, “in much the same way as our own immune system.” Modern agriculture uses fertilizer specifically to increase yields, he added, with little awareness of the nutritional needs of other organic functions. Through plant sap analysis, Kempf has been able to discover deficiencies in important trace minerals which he can then introduce into the soil. With plants able to defend themselves, pesticides can be avoided, allowing the natural predators of pests to flourish.

According to Kempf, the methods he developed through experimentation on his Ohio farm are now being used across North and South America, Hawaii, Europe, and Africa. The entrepreneur promises clients higher-quality crops, bigger yields, better taste, and produce that carries a lucrative “organic” label. Kempf, however, considers his process as an important improvement upon standard organic farming methods. “Organic certification is a negative-process certification,” he explained, “You can do nothing to your field and become certified. In contrast, we focus on actively restoring the balance found in natural systems.”

I recently sought out Samuel Zook, one of Kempf’s earliest converts, at his farm in Lancaster, Pennsylvania to see Advancing Eco Agriculture’s practices in action. After trailing a leisurely horse and carriage in my car for several miles, I was greeted at the farm by a bounding dog and Zook’s young barefoot son. The boy stared silently with his arms wrapped around a watermelon almost as big as himself. In a straw hat and suspenders, he looked like a miniature version of his father. The elder Zook smiled demurely through a neatly trimmed beard and extended his hand before inviting me on a tour of his fields. A hushed gaggle of children tripped along behind us as we walked among the bales of hay and rows of tomatoes, onions, melons, and squash.


Roc Morin: Can you describe the differences between how you used to farm and how you farm now?

Samuel Zook: The inputs changed drastically. Instead of trying to grow crops that are healthy with fungicides and pesticides, I started to grow crops that are healthy with nutrition.

Morin: What was the hardest part about making the change?

Zook: Well, there was a big psychological block that I had to get through. I’d see a couple bugs out there and feel like I immediately had to do something about it. But, I learned that if I sit back, things will often take care of themselves. That first summer for instance, we saw a lot of horn worms. Before that, I would have sprayed them right away, but this time I waited and a bunch of wasps came along and killed them. once I saw that, I started getting really excited.

Morin: So, when you use a pesticide you’re killing the predators too, right?

Zook: Right. You’re killing the entire ecosystem.

Morin: Have all of your problems disappeared?

Zook: I wish I could say that, but not entirely. We’re not living in the Garden of Eden yet. The issues I had before have disappeared, but we still have some other issues that we’re working on. one of the main things that has improved is how it feels to farm. Before, if I applied fungicide on my tomatoes, I had to wait three to seven days before I could reenter the area. Now, it’s so nice to just walk in my field any day of the week and not worry a bit. That in itself is huge. The other thing is, when I used to mix these skull-and-cross-bones chemicals to put in my sprayer, I’d have to be suited up. The children would be around and I’d say, “Now, get in the house. It’s not safe.” Now though, if the children want to help, it’s fine. If I want to mix the solutions better, I’ll just put my hand in a stir it around.

Morin: What are some of the problems that you’re dealing with now?

Zook: One of my major issues in the greenhouse is spider mites—little insects that just love a warm, dry environment. It’s very hard to control them, even conventionally. We usually get them under control, but we often lose some yield.

Morin: How do you get them under control?

Zook: Mainly through applying specific trace minerals like iodine and a whole line of ultra-micronutrients. We analyzed the sap of the plants with the help of a lab and I think we’ve narrowed the problem down to excessive ammonium nitrates. If ammonia builds up in the plants, it’s bug food, so we need to figure out a way to convert ammonia fast. I just spent two days with John [Kempf], and he came up with an enzyme cofactor which we’ll use to stimulate that ammonia conversion. We figure things out ourselves now rather than call up the chemical rep.

Morin: What did your chemical rep say when you told him that you didn’t need his services anymore?

Zook: Well, that was an interesting summer. He used to come here every week telling me horror stories about all the diseases in the neighborhood. But, I had made up my made up my mind, “No mas.” He came back every week for eight weeks telling me what I needed to spray. I said, “I’m fine, thanks.” The last time he was here, we were out picking tomatoes and he walked over. He was looking around and talking about this and that, and he didn’t even mention pesticides. “Well,” he said, “your tomatoes look pretty good.” I thought, “Yes!”

Morin: One thing that I immediately noticed is how great everything smells here. Do you still smell it, or are you accustomed to it?

Zook: Oh, I smell it every time I come here. It’s exciting. Those aromas are actually compounds the plants produce to defend themselves from insects and disease attacks. A lot of people don’t realize that plants have immune systems.

Morin: So, you can smell health—can you can smell problems too?

Zook: Yes. There’s a real science to walking through a field and pausing to feel what the plants are feeling. There’s a huge difference between walking in this field and walking in one that has had six fungicide applications. The plants just don’t radiate that same vitality. Another thing I learned is that every time you spray with a fungicide or something, it’s actually suppressing the plant as well as the fungi.

Morin: The same way that antibiotics can weaken a person’s immune system?

Zook: Yes. It might kill the disease, but then because it has weakened the plant, a week later the plant is much more susceptible to that same disease again. That’s the way it is with miticide. If I come in here and spray the mites with it, it would kill some of them, but it kills by messing with their hormones, so the ones that do survive will then mature 50 percent faster. So, it’s pretty much guaranteed that I’d have a huge mite outbreak 10 years later. Instead of doing that, let’s figure out what this plant wants and provide it. They really do respond.

Morin: What else can you tell by looking at your plants?

Zook: Well, one thing we learn is to read the leaves. This asymmetry here indicates zinc deficiency. The spots over here indicate a phosphorus deficiency. And, this here rippling of the leaf usually indicates excess nitrogen.

Morin: Before you started with this method were you able to read the leaves?

Zook: You know, I barely noticed them at all. I just planted and sprayed. Now, it’s much more fun.









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Jason Plotkin, owner of a small organic farm near Golden, Colorado, grapples with red, white, and golden beets he plans to sell at a farmers market.


The latest Greendex survey by the National Geographic Society and the research consulting firm GlobeScanmeasured consumption habits and attitudes in 18 countries. Each was scored on the relative size of its environmental footprint. (Related: 8 Surprising, Depressing, and Hopeful Findings From Global Survey of Environmental Attitudes.)

This year's report, the fifth since 2008, focused on food. It found noticeable improvements in eating habits even as environmentally sustainable behavior when it came to housing, transportation, and consumer goods appeared stuck or had worsened.

Consumers in 11 countries, including South Korea, Hungary, Australia, and Canada, had higher food scores compared with their scores in the previous survey, in 2012. (Read "The Next Green Revolution" in National Geographic magazine.)



The Greendex is a quantitative study of 18,000 consumers in a total of 18 countries (14 in 2008, 17 in 2009 through 2012) asked about energy consumption and conservation, transportation choices, food sources, the relative use of green products versus conventional products, attitudes toward the environment and sustainability, and knowledge of environmental concerns. A group of international experts helped determine the behaviors that were most critical to investigate.
NGM STAFF

India, which has ranked first in food sustainability in every Greendex, came out far ahead again, thanks to its culturally dictated eating habits. Nearly one in four Indians is a vegetarian, and those who aren't tend to avoid beef, the most environmentally damaging meat. Indians have reduced the amount of imported food they eat and increased their consumption of locally produced, homegrown, and organic foods.

Sprawling Countries Eat the Most Locally

More than half of consumers surveyed frequently eat locally grown food. Russians are the biggest locavores—77 percent consume local food daily or several times a week—followed by Indians and Chinese.

Russians, along with Hungarians, Swedes and Germans, also are eating more organic food and natural foods, now more and more part of mainstream diets.

Better informed consumers are more likely to pay attention to food ingredients, believe meat is bad for the environment, and be willing to pay more for organic and local foods.

Despite the move toward more sustainable habits, just 34 percent of consumers think they know enough about the quality, origin, and safety of the meals on their plates, and 43 percent believe they have little influence over how their food is produced. Consumers in every country are more concerned about food safety than in 2012, with the Chinese worrying the most, after a recent series of tainted-food scares in their country.

"Consumers feel somewhat alienated from the food system," says Eric Whan of GlobeScan. "They don't feel particularly empowered to affect how food is produced."

Food as Culture

Majorities in every country except Sweden said that food is an essential part of their culture. Indian, Chinese, Spanish, and Mexican consumers were most attached to their national foods.

Some comfort foods, though, pose cultural barriers to more sustainable behavior.

Mexicans ranked last in the Greendex measure of food due to a diet heavy in beef and chicken. The Japanese, who eat more fish and seafood than anyone, ate the next least-green diet. Swedish and Spanish consumers saw the biggest drops in their food scores since 2012, thanks to bigger appetites for fish and seafood in both countries and for chicken in Spain.

Meanwhile America's junk food culture means its consumers eat the most processed and packaged foods and the fewest fruits and vegetables. And not surprisingly for island nations, the British and Japanese eat far more imported food than homegrown.

When told certain foods were less harmful to the environment, consumers in every country said they planned to eat more grains and beans and to buy more locally produced or natural food. They also vowed to cut down on meat, bottled water, and packaged foods.

Yet consumers in most English-speaking countries and in Sweden were less interested in how their food was produced than people elsewhere. Globally, more consumers reject than accept the idea that eating meat is bad for the environment. Those who plan to eat less meat in the future cite health or cost more than the environment as their prime motivator.

Nicole Darnall, a researcher at the School of Sustainability at Arizona State University, is not surprised by the slow-as-molasses rate of change, especially in the United States.

"We haven't seen broad, sweeping laws that would radically change how consumers interact with food," she said in an interview. "We subsidize traditional food production in a way we don't subsidize natural and organic foods."

Not Our Problem

British, German, Australian, American, and Canadian consumers showed little interest in changing their consumption habits to diminish their environmental footprints—even though theirs were among the biggest.

The most stubborn consumers lived in Japan, which last week announced it will resume whale hunting and where nearly half eat pork several times a week.

"Something's going on in Japan—talk about entrenched," says Susan Frazier, research manager at NGS. "There's not much there that's changing for the positive."

Despite the industrial world's relative resistance to change, the Greendex offers reason for hope. Consumers in five countries with a total of 1.8 billion people—Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, China, and India—all have a keen appetite and a great potential for change. Many consumers in those countries, when given information about how their habits affect the environment, indicated that they were open to altering their behavior in ways that would contribute to a more sustainable planet.

"The developing world is more nimble, less entrenched than we are," Darnall said. "It's easier for them to consider alternatives."

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The genes of all living things on Earth—including the sunflower, a valuable oil crop—consist of varying sequences of four chemical compounds: adenine, thymine, cytosine, and guanine, abbreviated as A, T, C, and G. By identifying genes and manipulating them, scientists hope to create new crops that will help us face the challenges of global warming and population growth.

The Next Green Revolution

Modern supercrops will be a big help. 

But agriculture can’t be fixed by biotech alone. 




Something is killing Ramadhani Juma’s cassava crop. “Maybe it’s too much water,” he says, fingering clusters of withered yellow leaves on a six-foot-high plant. “Or too much sun.” Juma works a small plot, barely more than an acre, near the town of Bagamoyo, on the Indian Ocean about 40 miles north of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. on a rainy March morning, trailed by two of his four young sons, he’s talking with a technician from the big city, 28-year-old Deogratius Mark of the Mikocheni Agricultural Research Institute. Mark tells Juma his problem is neither sun nor rain. The real cassava killers, far too small to see, are viruses.


Mark breaks off some wet leaves; a few whiteflies dart away. The pinhead-size flies, he explains, transmit two viruses. one ravages cassava leaves, and a second, called brown streak virus, destroys the starchy, edible root—a catastrophe that usually isn’t discovered until harvest time. Juma is typical of the farmers Mark meets—most have never heard of the viral diseases. “Can you imagine how he’ll feel if I tell him he has to uproot all these plants?” Mark says quietly.

Juma is wearing torn blue shorts and a faded green T-shirt with “Would you like to buy a vowel?” printed on the front. He listens carefully to Mark’s diagnosis. Then he unshoulders his heavy hoe and starts digging. His oldest son, who is ten, nibbles a cassava leaf. Uncovering a cassava root, Juma splits it open with one swing of his hoe. He sighs—the creamy white flesh is streaked with brown, rotting starch.

To save enough of the crop to sell and to feed his family, Juma will have to harvest a month early. I ask how important cassava is to him.

“Mihogo ni kila kitu,” he replies in Swahili. “Cassava is everything.”

Most Tanzanians are subsistence farmers. In Africa small family farms grow more than 90 percent of all crops, and cassava is a staple for more than 250 million people. It grows even in marginal soils, and it tolerates heat waves and droughts. It would be the perfect crop for 21st-century Africa—were it not for the whitefly, whose range is expanding as the climate warms. The same viruses that have invaded Juma’s field have already spread throughout East Africa.

Before leaving Bagamoyo, we meet one of Juma’s neighbors, Shija Kagembe. His cassava fields have fared no better. He listens silently as Mark tells him what the viruses have done. “How can you help us?” he asks.









Answering that question will be one of the greatest challenges of this century. Climate change and population growth will make life increasingly precarious for Juma, Kagembe, and other small farmers in the developing world—and for the people they feed. For most of the 20th century humanity managed to stay ahead in the Malthusian race between population growth and food supply. Will we be able to maintain that lead in the 21st century, or will a global catastrophe beset us?

The United Nations forecasts that by 2050 the world’s population will grow by more than two billion people. Half will be born in sub-Saharan Africa, and another 30 percent in South and Southeast Asia. Those regions are also where the effects of climate change—drought, heat waves, extreme weather generally—are expected to hit hardest. Last March the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change warned that the world’s food supply is already jeopardized. “In the last 20 years, particularly for rice, wheat, and corn, there has been a slowdown in the growth rate of crop yields,” says Michael Oppenheimer, a climate scientist at Princeton and one of the authors of the IPCC report. “In some areas yields have stopped growing entirely. My personal view is that the breakdown of food systems is the biggest threat of climate change.”


Half a century ago disaster loomed just as ominously. Speaking about global hunger at a meeting of the Ford Foundation in 1959, one economist said, “At best the world outlook for the decades ahead is grave; at worst it is frightening.” Nine years later Paul Ehrlich’s best seller, The Population Bomb, predicted that famines, especially in India, would kill hundreds of millions in the 1970s and 1980s.

Before those grim visions could come to pass, the green revolution transformed global agriculture, especially wheat and rice. Through selective breeding, Norman Borlaug, an American biologist, created a dwarf variety of wheat that put most of its energy into edible kernels rather than long, inedible stems. The result: more grain per acre. Similar work at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines dramatically improved the productivity of the grain that feeds nearly half the world.

From the 1960s through the 1990s, yields of rice and wheat in Asia doubled. Even as the continent’s population increased by 60 percent, grain prices fell, the average Asian consumed nearly a third more calories, and the poverty rate was cut in half. When Borlaug won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1970, the citation read, “More than any other person of this age, he helped provide bread for a hungry world.”

To keep doing that between now and 2050, we’ll need another green revolution. There are two competing visions of how it will happen. one is high-tech, with a heavy emphasis on continuing Borlaug’s work of breeding better crops, but with modern genetic techniques. “The next green revolution will supercharge the tools of the old one,” says Robert Fraley, chief technology officer at Monsanto and a winner of the prestigious World Food Prize in 2013. Scientists, he argues, can now identify and manipulate a huge variety of plant genes, for traits like disease resistance and drought tolerance. That’s going to make farming more productive and resilient.

The signature technology of this approach—and the one that has brought both success and controversy to Monsanto—is genetically modified, or GM, crops. First released in the 1990s, they’ve been adopted by 28 countries and planted on 11 percent of the world’s arable land, including half the cropland in the U.S. About 90 percent of the corn, cotton, and soybeans grown in the U.S. are genetically modified. Americans have been eating GM products for nearly two decades. But in Europe and much of Africa, debates over the safety and environmental effects of GM crops have largely blocked their use.

Proponents like Fraley say such crops have prevented billions of dollars in losses in the U.S. alone and have actually benefited the environment. A recent study by the U.S. Department of Agriculture found that pesticide use on corn crops has dropped 90 percent since the introduction of Bt corn, which contains genes from the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis that help it ward off corn borers and other pests. Reports from China indicate that harmful aphids have decreased—and ladybugs and other beneficial insects have increased—in provinces where GM cotton has been planted.





The cassava plants in this petri dish have been genetically engineered to resist brown streak virus, a disease that’s spreading across sub-Saharan Africa, where cassava is a staple for 250 million people. Field tests began last spring in Uganda. only four African countries allow the planting of genetically modified crops.






The particular GM crops Fraley pioneered at Monsanto have been profitable for the company and many farmers, but have not helped sell the cause of high-tech agriculture to the public. Monsanto’s Roundup Ready crops are genetically modified to be immune to the herbicide Roundup, which Monsanto also manufactures. That means farmers can spray the herbicide freely to eliminate weeds without damaging their GM corn, cotton, or soybeans. Their contract with Monsanto does not allow them to save seeds for planting; they must purchase its patented seeds each year.

Though there’s no clear evidence that Roundup or Roundup Ready crops are unsafe, proponents of an alternative vision of agriculture see those expensive GM seeds as a costly input to a broken system. Modern agriculture, they say, already relies too heavily on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Not only are they unaffordable for a small farmer like Juma; they pollute land, water, and air. Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured using fossil fuels, and they themselves emit potent greenhouse gases when they’re applied to fields.

“The choice is clear,” says Hans Herren, another World Food Prize laureate and the director of Biovision, a Swiss nonprofit. “We need a farming system that is much more mindful of the landscape and ecological resources. We need to change the paradigm of the green revolution. Heavy-input agriculture has no future—we need something different.” There are ways to deter pests and increase yields, he thinks, that are more suitable for the Jumas of this world.












Monsanto is not the only organization that believes modern plant genetics can help feed the world. Late on a warm February afternoon Glenn Gregorio, a plant geneticist at the International Rice Research Institute, shows me the rice that started the green revolution in Asia. We’re in Los Baños, a town about 40 miles southeast of Manila, walking along the edge of some very special rice fields, of which there are many on the institute’s 500 acres.

“This is the miracle rice—IR8,” says Gregorio, as we stop beside an emerald patch of crowded, thigh-high rice plants. Roosters crow in the distance; egrets gleam white against so much green; silvery light glints off the flooded fields. IRRI, a nonprofit, was founded by the Ford and Rockefeller Foundations in 1960. Two years later a plant pathologist named Peter Jennings began a series of crossbreeding experiments. He had 10,000 varieties of rice seeds to work with. His eighth cross—between a dwarf strain from Taiwan and a taller variety from Indonesia—created the fast-growing, high-yielding strain later known as India Rice 8 for its role in preventing famine in that country. “It revolutionized rice production in Asia,” says Gregorio. “Some parents in India named their sons IR8.”

Walking along the paddies, we pass other landmark breeds, each designated with a neatly painted wooden sign. The institute releases dozens of new varieties every year; about a thousand have been planted around the world since the 1960s. Yields have typically improved by just under one percent a year. “We want to raise that to 2 percent,” Gregorio says. The world’s population growth rate, now 1.14 percent a year, is projected to slow to 0.5 percent by 2050.





Rice is the most important food crop in the world, providing more energy to humanity than any other food source. Rice yields have more than tripled since 1961, keeping up with Asia’s growing population.

JASON TREAT, NGM STAFF. SOURCES: JANELLE JUNG, IRRI; FAOSTAT




The Path to Flood-Tolerant Rice

When the green revolution began in the 1960s, it was before the revolution in molecular genetics: IR8, the first miracle rice, was bred without knowledge of the genes that blessed it with high yields. Breeders today can zero in on genes, but they still use traditional techniques and ever more complex pedigrees. That’s how they’ve created rice varieties adapted to rising sea levels—including Swarna-Sub1, popular in India, and IR64 Sub1, whose pedigree is shown here.







For many decades IRRI focused on improving traditional varieties of rice, grown in fields that are flooded at planting time. Lately it has shifted its attention to climate change. It now offers drought-tolerant varieties, including one that can be planted in dry fields and subsist on rainfall, as corn and wheat do. There’s a salt-tolerant rice for countries like Bangladesh, where rising seas are poisoning rice fields. “Farmers don’t realize the salt water is coming into their fields,” says Gregorio. “By the time the water is salty enough to taste, the plants are already dying.”

Only a few of the rice varieties at IRRI are GM crops, in the sense that they contain a gene transferred from a different species, and none of those are publicly available yet. one is Golden Rice, which contains genes from corn that allow it to produce beta-carotene; its purpose is to combat the global scourge of vitamin A deficiency. Last summer an IRRI test plot of Golden Rice was trampled by anti-GM activists. IRRI creates GM varieties only as a last resort, says director Robert Zeigler, when it can’t find the desired trait in rice itself.


Yet the institute’s entire breeding operation has been accelerated by modern genetics. For decades IRRI breeders patiently followed the ancient recipe: Select plants with the desired trait, cross-pollinate, wait for the offspring to reach maturity, select the best performers, repeat. Now there’s an alternative to that painstaking process. In 2004 an international consortium of researchers mapped the entire rice genome, which comprises some 40,000 individual genes. Since then, researchers around the world have been pinpointing genes that control valuable traits and can be selected directly.

In 2006, for example, plant pathologist Pamela Ronald of the University of California, Davis, isolated a gene called Sub1 from an East Indian rice variety. Seldom grown now because of its low yields, the East Indian rice has one remarkable characteristic: It can survive for two weeks underwater. Most varieties die after three days.

Researchers at IRRI cross-pollinated Sub1 rice with a high-yielding, flavorful variety called Swarna, which is popular in India and Bangladesh. Then they screened the DNA to determine which seedlings had actually inherited the Sub1 gene. The technology, called marker-assisted breeding, is more accurate and saves time. The researchers didn’t have to plant the seedlings, grow them, and then submerge them for two weeks to see which would survive.

The new flood-tolerant rice, called Swarna-Sub1, has been planted by nearly four million farmers in Asia, where every year floods destroy about 50 million acres of rice. one recent study found that farmers in 128 villages in the Indian state of Odisha, on the Bay of Bengal, increased their yields by more than 25 percent. The most marginal farmers reaped the most benefit.

“The lowest castes in India are given the worst land, and the worst lands in Odisha are prone to flooding,” says Zeigler. “So here is a very sophisticated biotechnology—flood-tolerant rice—that preferentially benefits the poorest of the poor, the Untouchables. That’s a helluva story, I think.”

The institute’s most ambitious project would transform rice fundamentally and perhaps increase yields dramatically. Rice, wheat, and many other plants use a type of photosynthesis known as C3, for the three-carbon compound they produce when sunlight is absorbed. Corn, sugarcane, and some other plants use C4 photosynthesis. Such crops require far less water and nitrogen than C3 crops do, “and typically have 50 percent higher yields,” says William Paul Quick of IRRI. His plan is to convert rice into a C4 crop by manipulating its own genes.

C4 photosynthesis, unlike the submergence tolerance of Sub1 rice, is controlled by many genes, not just one, which makes it a challenging trait to introduce. on the other hand, says Quick, “it has evolved independently 62 times. That suggests it can’t be that difficult to do.” By “knocking out” genes one by one, he and his colleagues are systematically identifying all the genes responsible for photosynthesis in Setaria viridis, a small, fast-growing C4 grass. So far all the genes they’ve found are also present in C3 plants. They’re just not used in the same way.



Breeding 
Better Crops

Genetic modification gets the public attention—and the controversy—but plant breeders today have numerous tools for creating crops with new traits. The goal: continually increasing yields in an increasingly challenging climate.


Graphic of genetic modification

Traditional Breeding
Desired traits are identified in separate individuals of the same species, which are then bred to combine those traits in a new hybrid variety.


Graphic of genetic modification

Interspecies Crosses
Breeders can also cross different yet similar species. Modern wheat comes from such hybridizations, some of which happened naturally.


Graphic of genetic modification

Marker-Assisted Selection
When genes for a trait aren’t precisely known, targeting a DNA marker near them can speed up breeding: It identifies plants with the trait even before they mature.


Graphic of genetic modification

Genetic Modification
Genes identified in one species can be transferred directly to an unrelated species, giving it an entirely new trait—resistance to a pest, say, or to a weed killer.


Graphic of genetic modification

Mutation Breeding
Seeds are irradiated to promote random mutations in their DNA. If a mutation happens to produce a desirable trait, the plant is selected for further breeding.


ART: OLIVER MUNDAY. SOURCE: JANELLE JUNG, INTERNATIONAL RICE RESEARCH INSTITUTE (IRRI)



Quick and his colleagues hope to learn how to switch them on in rice. “We think it will take a minimum of 15 years to do this,” Quick says. “We’re in year four.” If they succeed, the same techniques might help enhance the productivity of potatoes, wheat, and other C3 plants. It would be an unprecedented boon to food security; in theory yields could jump by 50 percent.

Prospects like that have made Zeigler a passionate advocate of biotechnology. White-bearded and avuncular, a self-described old lefty, Zeigler believes the public debate over genetically modified crops has become horribly muddled. “When I was starting out in the ’60s, a lot of us got into genetic engineering because we thought we could do a lot of good for the world,” he says. “We thought, These tools are fantastic!

“We do feel a bit betrayed by the environmental movement, I can tell you that. If you want to have a conversation about what the role of large corporations should be in our food supply, we can have that conversation—it’s really important. But it’s not the same conversation about whether we should use these tools of genetics to improve our crops. They’re both important, but let’s not confound them.”

Zeigler decided on his career after a stint as a science teacher in the Peace Corps in 1972. “When I was in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, I saw a cassava famine,” he says. “That’s what made me become a plant pathologist.”






Video: Breeding Factory  Inside the Donald Danforth Plant Science Center in St. Louis, plants get the phenotyping treatment, while scientists explain how the technology could benefit crops in a shifting climate.



Which vision of agriculture is right for the farmers of sub-Saharan Africa? Today, says Nigel Taylor, a geneticist at the Donald Danforth Plant Science Center in St. Louis, Missouri, the brown streak virus has the potential to cause another cassava famine. “It has become an epidemic in the last five to ten years, and it’s getting worse,” he says. “With higher temperatures, the whitefly’s range is expanding. The great concern is that brown streak is starting to move into central Africa, and if it hits the massive cassava-growing areas of West Africa, you’ve got a major food-security issue.”

Taylor and other researchers are in the early stages of developing genetically modified cassava varieties that are immune to the brown streak virus. Taylor is collaborating with Ugandan researchers on a field trial, and another is under way in Kenya. But only four African countries—Egypt, Sudan, South Africa, and Burkina Faso—currently allow the commercial planting of GM crops.


In Africa, as elsewhere, people fear GM crops, even though there’s little scientific evidence to justify the fear. There’s a stronger argument that high-tech plant breeds are not a panacea and maybe not even what African farmers need most. Even in the United States some farmers are having problems with them.

A paper published last March, for instance, documented an unsettling trend: Corn rootworms are evolving resistance to the bacterial toxins in Bt corn. “I was surprised when I saw the data, because I knew what it meant—that this technology was starting to fail,” says Aaron Gassmann, an entomologist at Iowa State University and co-author of the report. one problem, he says, is that some farmers don’t follow the legal requirement to plant “refuge fields” with non-Bt corn, which slow the spread of resistant genes by supporting rootworms that remain vulnerable to the Bt toxins.

In Tanzania there are no GM crops yet. But some farmers are learning that a simple, low-tech solution—planting a diversity of crops—is one of the best ways to deter pests. Tanzania now has the fourth largest number of certified organic farmers in the world. Part of the credit belongs to a young woman named Janet Maro.

Maro grew up on a farm near Kilimanjaro, the fifth of eight children. In 2009, while still an undergraduate at the Sokoine University of Agriculture in Morogoro, she helped start a nonprofit called Sustainable Agriculture Tanzania (SAT). Since then she and her small staff have been training local farmers in organic practices. SAT now receives support from Biovision, the Swiss organization headed by Hans Herren.




The Search for a Less Thirsty Tomato  To find out how tomato plants resist drought, Danforth Center researchers cut their water ration 18 days after planting, then monitor them using three kinds of imaging. Near-infrared images show the plant’s water content. Fluorescence images show where photosynthesis is occurring. Tomatoes are typically grown in hot, dry climates with a lot of irrigation water—more than 13 gallons per tomato on average. To create less thirsty varieties, Dan Chitwood’s team at the Danforth Center are crossing tomato plants with a wild relative from Peru’s Atacama Desert, one of the driest places on Earth.




Morogoro lies about a hundred miles west of Dar es Salaam, at the base of the Uluguru Mountains. A few days after my visit with Juma in Bagamoyo, Maro takes me into the mountains to visit three of the first certified organic farms in Tanzania. “Agricultural agents don’t come here,” she says as we lurch up a steep, rutted dirt road in a pickup. Greened by rains drifting in from the Indian Ocean, the slopes remain heavily forested. But increasingly they’ve been cleared for farming by the Luguru people.

Every quarter mile or so we pass women walking alone or in small groups, balancing baskets of cassavas, papayas, or bananas on their heads. It’s market day in Morogoro, 3,000 feet below us. Women here are more than porters. Among the Luguru, landownership in a family passes down the female line. “If a woman doesn’t like a man, out he goes!” Maro says.

She stops at a one-room brick house with partially plastered walls and a corrugated metal roof. Habija Kibwana, a tall woman in a short-sleeved white blouse and wraparound skirt, invites us and two neighbors to sit on her porch.

Unlike the farmers in Bagamoyo, Kibwana and her neighbors raise a variety of crops: Bananas, avocados, and passion fruit are in season now. Soon they’ll be planting carrots, spinach, and other leafy vegetables, all for local consumption. The mix provides a backup in case one crop fails; it also helps cut down on pests. The farmers here are learning to plant strategically, setting out rows of Tithonia diversifolia, a wild sunflower that whiteflies prefer, to draw the pests away from the cassavas. The use of compost instead of synthetic fertilizers has improved the soil so much that one of the farmers, Pius Paulini, has doubled his spinach production. Runoff from his fields no longer contaminates streams that supply Morogoro’s water.

Perhaps the most life-altering result of organic farming has been the liberation from debt. Even with government subsidies, it costs 500,000 Tanzanian shillings, more than $300, to buy enough fertilizer and pesticide to treat a single acre—a crippling expense in a country where the annual per capita income is less than $1,600. “Before, when we had to buy fertilizer, we had no money left over to send our children to school,” says Kibwana. Her oldest daughter has now finished high school.

And the farms are more productive too. “Most of the food in our markets is from small farmers,” says Maro. “They feed our nation.”





Wheat History Wagon  Counting from left to right: a wild ancestor from the Middle East; einkorn wheat, domesticated there 10,000 years ago; durum wheat; modern wheat, produced by crossing durum with goat grass; and a green revolution variety with shorter stalks and larger seeds. Wild wheat (in hand) has virtues scientists hope to tap: It can tolerate temperatures that kill its domesticated kin.




When I ask Maro if genetically modified seeds might also help those farmers, she’s skeptical. “It’s not realistic,” she says. How could they afford the seeds when they can’t even afford fertilizer? How likely is it, she asks, in a country where few farmers ever see a government agricultural adviser, or are even aware of the diseases threatening their crops, that they’ll get the support they need to grow GM crops properly? From Kibwana’s porch we have sweeping views of richly cultivated terraced slopes—but also of slopes scarred by the brown, eroded fields of nonorganic farmers, most of whom don’t build terraces to retain their precious soil. Kibwana and Paulini say their own success has attracted the attention of their neighbors. Organic farming is spreading here. But it’s spreading slowly.

That’s the central problem, I thought as I left Tanzania: getting knowledge that works from organizations like SAT or IRRI to people like Juma. It’s not choosing one type of knowledge—low-tech versus high-tech, organic versus GM—once and for all. There’s more than one way to increase yields or to stop a whitefly. “Organic farming can be the right approach in some areas,” says Monsanto executive Mark Edge. “By no means do we think that GM crops are the solution for all the problems in Africa.” Since the first green revolution, says Robert Zeigler, ecological science has advanced along with genetics. IRRI uses those advances too.

“You see the egrets flying out there?” he asks toward the end of our conversation. Outside his office a flock is descending on the green paddies; the mountains beyond glow with evening light. “In the early ’90s you didn’t see birds here. The pesticides we used killed the birds and snails and everything else. Then we invested a lot to understand the ecological structures of rice paddies. You have these complex webs, and if you disrupt them, you have pest outbreaks. We learned that in the vast majority of cases, you don’t need pesticides. Rice is a tough plant. You can build resistance into it. We now have a rich ecology here, and our yields haven’t dropped.

“At certain times of the day we get a hundred or so of those egrets. It’s really uplifting to see. Things can get better.”






Can rice be made to photosynthesize as efficiently as corn? If so, yields could rise 50 percent. In a magnified cross section of a corn leaf (left), photosynthesis proteins are stained fluorescent green. Ordinary rice (middle) makes none of the proteins—but rice that has been genetically manipulated by IRRI scientists (right) makes some. WILLIAM PAUL QUICK, IRRI







http://www.nationalgeographic.com/foodfeatures/green-revolution/



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